Wine(ry) of the Week: Mollydooker

 

I heard rumors last year that there had been a rift between the Marquis family and Dan Philips, who had been so successful over recent years with their collaborative Marquis Philips wine label. Their occasional offering 'Integrity' had consistently scored off the charts in tastings, and their lesser priced screw cap bottles were also solid crowd pleasers. It must have been one hell of a fight for these two parties to give up what could only have been a cash cow.

Now Dan Philips has teamed with Chris Ringland, already having released Pillar Box Red (a Shiraz blend) and Three Rings Shiraz this past year through his Grateful Palate distribution entity (Philips has begun pushing his wine through Costco, which could be a sign of strength or of desperation, I'm not really sure).

Finally, it's the Marquis's turn to venture out on their own. And though Ringland is a renowned vintner, the Southern Hemisphere may not have a more talented winemaker/marketing combo in Sarah and Sparky Marquis. Their new label is called Mollydooker, which means 'left handed' in Australian (apparently Australian is indeed a language all its own).

Among their early fans is the venerable Robert Parker, who says the following about their first release, "The Boxer":

The 2005 The Boxer Shiraz (primarily from McLaren Vale, followed by Langhorne Creek and Padthaway) exhibits a black/blue/purple color, an incredible density of fruit along with that tell-tale purity, blackberries, white flowers, melted chocolate, sweet licorice, and subtle wood. Full-bodied, beautifully textured and layered with an awesome finish, it should drink well for 4-6+ years. Two more expensive Mollydooker cuvees will be reviewed in my full Australian report in the October issue.

Sarah and Sparky Marquis, who live by the motto, “We make wines that make people go wow - through attention to detail and commitment to excellence,” have hit pay dirt with these brilliantly packaged, screw cap-finished wines with labels that resemble Broadway vaudeville acts from the mid-thirties. Even more innovative, their back labels have a small postage stamp with all the relevant information so restaurant consumers can remember the wine by pulling off the stamp and taking it home. 95 points.

Personally, I haven't had a chance to try any of the wines since most have just made it to market or are still listed as futures; but I am definitely going to place an order. Currently the best prices for the Boxer and the Two Left Feet -- the first two releases -- can be had at K&L Wine Merchants in the Bay Area ($19.99 a bottle with a six bottle limit of each release). But the wines are also available at Wally's in Los Angeles, and at Zachy's for New York readers for $25 a bottle, a premium that might be made up for with saved shipping charges.

Hell, I would buy these just for the labels alone, which have a Chris Ware quality that could inspire me to place the bottles on my shelves, as art objects, long after their liquid contents have been emptied. This is something I never could have done with the 'Roogle' mascot that graced the Marquis-Philips bottles.