Restaurant Review: Lou on Vine

 

The Dabbler's Los Angeles neighborhood, Larchmont Village, is a great little spot, the street lined with restaurants, coffee establishments, a local general store, hardware store, flower shop and bookseller. However the restaurant category leaves a lot to be desired. Almost all of the restaurants are Italian, and the ones that aren't are either overpriced (Le Petit Greek), chains (Louise's Trattoria) or just plain bad (Cafe Chapeau, which thankfully closed a week or two ago). And there's not one place where you can go to just get a drink, unless you count the wine store where drinking on the premises is a no-no.

So imagine my excitement when I read that a new wine bar/small plates establishment, named Lou, would be opening at the intersection of Melrose and Vine. Though not on Larchmont, Lou's locale in the generic mini-mall anchored by the quixotic and always empty Flaming Patty's (home of the grease grenade) is certainly convenient.

Unfortunately, my high expectations led to a disappointing first encounter at Lou this past weekend. For the time being, Lou is a poor man's A.O.C. -- and while my wallet appreciates the financial aspect of the 'poor man' designation, my palate does not. The carefully picked wine list is really not that interesting (not even one Australian red on the menu), the food might have been good if it hadn't been seasoned with an entire jar of sea salt, and the service left a lot to be desired. I'll chalk up the last two items to opening month jitters.

The wine list must evolve, though, to include some more appealing options. Of the four wines the Dabbler and her oenophilic spouse tasted, only one was quaffable. We started with a pour of the most expensive red on the menu, a Super Tuscan which was barely a Decent Tuscan. At $50 a bottle (and a two ounce pour for ten dollars or so) it was hardly a huge loss, but I expected more from the highest ticket item. A Napa Cab, a California Pinot, and a Syrah from somewhere I can't remember were less expensive (all bottles under $35, pours in the $5 to $7 range) and equally as good (or should I say bad). The wines were too young, had been open too long, or hadn't been open long enough considering their age.

Though I'm basically panning the place, I will definitely give Lou on Vine another chance. It really is so convenient. And that it's owned by the husband of the New York Times' lead film critic means there are sure to be loads of film intellectuals and other people-watching-worthy Hollywood types hovering around. It really could be a sweet little spot.

But unless the wine list gets better, even the crispiest pig candy (heavily fried maple and brown sugar glazed bacon with a dash of cayenne pepper) won't be enough to bring me back a third time. There isn't enough food on the menu to really constitute a meal, so the wine component is quite important. And though I admire the proprietor's attempt to offer what he calls "real wine" from "family producers, regional grapes and traditional winemaking" sources, his palate could use some refinement or he might consider hiring a sommelier.

(Or, if Lou happens to be reading this, the Dabbler would be happy to share some of her recent well priced discoveries with him...Oregon's Raptor Ridge to name just one.)

Lou on Vine
724 N. Vine Street
Los Angeles, CA 90038
(323) 962-6369 (no reservations accepted currently)