The Squeamish Gourmet

 

When I graduated from college, I didn't have a job lined up. Instead, I took three months and traveled around South East Asia, to countries -- such as Indonesia and Malaysia -- that I might not go to at present day with my husband, let alone as a woman traveling solo. This was all in a pre-Osama, -jihad, -war-in-Iraq world (well, at least pre-Gulf War 2).

I was adventurous, daring, and one might say naïve, when it came to all sorts of matters, from getting on the back of a local's motorcycle upon arrival in Ubud, believing his claim that he would take me to "beautiful bungalow accomodations" that would cost me only $5.00 a night including breakfast (he was telling the truth, though prices seem to have gone up since), to eating meals from street vendors, never once thinking that I wasn't consuming said chicken that the cart-proprietor claimed to be proffering (in retrospect who knows what I was actually eating, and I did get sick with some amount of frequency).

I was careful, of course, not to chew gum in Singapore, lest I get caned. But otherwise I was a free spirit with few fears, especially when it came to food; though I admit, I never tried Durian and I am not so thrilled to see that Whole Foods has recently begun peddling the stinky, spiky fruit. (Durian smells so bad that many hotels, posting warning signage outside, won't even allow it on their premises. See image to left.)

Now, a mere twelve years later -- yikes, has it been twelve years? -- I will hardly enter a restaurant with a B letter grade from the Los Angeles County Health Department. What has happened to the daring, adventurous foodie in me? I have grown to become a timid, squeamish eater. I admit I have even had actual nightmares where I find myself eating in a restaurant, only to discover mid-meal that I'm in a C-rated enterprise! Is this the adult, yuppie version of the bad dream in which you realize you have a final exam that day for a French or math class you haven't attended all semester? (I still have those, too, by the way.)

All of this makes it difficult for the Dabbler to really claim any expertise as far as dining goes, since, as reported in the Los Angeles Times two weeks ago, the more authentic ethnic establishments are the ones that most commonly receive health scores of B and C. But I consider myself somewhat of a bon vivant nonetheless.

Following is a list of some interesting LA area restaurants that get A scores (at least at last inspection), and that the Dabbler highly recommends for the persnickety diners out there who still consider themselves gastronomes:

BCD Tofu House: There are several locations for this chain of 'soon-tofu' restauraunts, but the only one currently receiving an A grade (and consistently so) is located at 1201 S. Los Angeles Street, 90015. I have never been to this particular location (apparently the ones I normally frequent, at Wilshire and Kingsley, and at Olympic and Western, have only B scores at the moment) but I can tell you that the food at BCD is quite good. Soon tofu is a stew served in a stone pot, containing a spicy broth, meat, fish or kimchee depending upon your preference, egg, and of course the eponymous tofu which is silky soft and homemade. You can also get bulgogi, bibimbap and other Korean dishes for those uninterested in soy stew.

Chosun Galbee: This Korean barbecue joint is probably the poshest of them all, with the most technically advanced and powerful exhaust system around, so patrons don't leave smelling like smoked meats. Everything here is excellent, and the food is relatively reasonably priced. While scores have fluctuated between B's and A's, Chosun Galbee's current score of 90 puts them in the A category. This is a joint that I give the benefit of the doubt. The outdoor patio is especially lovely.

Tere's Mexican Grill: While I'm sure there is plenty of lard used to make the food here, it's as good as (if not better than) any Mexican east of Western Avenue. It beats the overrated Loteria stand at the Farmer's Market, which is now practically a cafeteria, by miles. Particularly delectable is the chile relleno burrito.

La Buca: My favorite neighborhood joint, this small Italian storefront is like eating in somebody's home in Northern Italy. In fact, the owner's mother even illegally enters the country for part of the year to run the kitchen. Even without 'Mama' around, the food is excellent, as is the $0 corkage. Menu highlights: any homemade pasta, especially the gnocchi. And they've gotten straight A's on their last four health inspections (this is as far back as the health department goes on their website)!

Sunnin Lebanese Cafe: This hole in the wall on Westwood Boulevard currently gets a 95 score from the health department, and I would give it that for food quality as well. It must be the cooking of "famous chef" and "much loved Em-Toni" (text taken from the restaurant's website -- does every restaurant, except for Tere's, have a website these days?). They prepare the best falafel I've ever had; and the labneh with garlic, a thick and creamy, yogurty, almost cream cheese-like dip, is indescribably scrumptious. Note, Gayot.com states that it's a hang-out for "homesick expats from Lebanon, Iran and Egypt" so there is always the possibility that you'll be dining alongside an Al-Qaeda operative. Not that I'm paranoid or racist or anything like that...

Posh on Pico: Guess what? They have their own website too! I have only been here twice, but both experiences were positive. There's now a place to get Cuban food other than Versailles (not that there's anything wrong with Versailles), and the menu includes items from the inventive (the "Latina cheeseburger") to the traditional (the "Cuban sandwich" pictured here). The owner is ultra-friendly so expect to be engaged in conversation whether you like it or not. It comes with the territory.

Torafuku: This is the first outlet of a Japanese chain specializing in Kamado rice. According to Torafuku's website (yes, of course they have one), "the Kamado originated in ancient Japan, approximately 2000 years ago during the Kofun Era. It consisted of a large earthen oven with a metal pot that was horizontally inserted, then heated from the bottom using wood for fuel. The Kamado, being quite versatile, was used to cook rice and other foods, as well as to boil miso (soy bean) soup and hot water for tea. In some cases, the heat that it generated was used to heat the home during the winter months. Over time, the Kamado evolved into steel rice cookers inserted into a stone frame, like the one you see here at Torafuku, known as the Ishikamado. It is through the use of the Ishikamado, where the Japanese perfected the art of cooking rice. The end result is sweeter, fluffier rice that is better than any rice you've experienced before." They also have been very picky to import only what they consider the finest rice to cook in these gigantic stone pots. One word of advice...don't go here for dinner. At lunch you can get incredible bento boxes and set menus for an average price of ten to twelve measly bucks. A veritable bargain.